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Cage (Vivarium)
A 20 gallon long makes a good sized cage for a corn snake. Even five feet long fully grown adult corn snakes, only require a cage about three feet long by fifteen to eighteen inches high by fifteen inches from front to back. In fact, this size is big enough for a pair of Corn Snakes.

It is ok to keeping two snakes in one cage, but three or more is too much. In other hand, snakes don't like big wide open space. So, it is no good getting an adult size cage for hatchling. The wide space will stress this young corn snakes out.

Exotic pets may seem more exciting and different however unless your are fully prepared and understand enough about the exotic pets you choose bringing one home could end in disaster.

Heating
Corn snakes, like all reptiles, cannot maintain their internal body heat. Thus, maintaining the cage at the proper temperature is vital to care of corn snakes. A temperature gradient from 70 – 75 ºF on one end of the cage to 80 – 85 ºF on the other should be maintained to allow the snake to regulate its body temperature by moving from one part of the cage to the other.

The heat mat is the best way to heat the corn snake's cage. These are rectangular electrical heating pads, sealed in laminated plastic with the electrical cable coming out at one edge. Available in various sizes for different cages and can be purchased at reptile pet shops.

The heat pad should be placed under one-half of the cage, covering roughly half the floor area, thus giving the corn snake a choice of warm and cool areas. To easily monitor temperature, inexpensive self-sticks thermometers can be purchased and applied about an inch above the bottom of the cage on the warm side. A thermostat and heat sensor need to be incorporated in the system, to automatically switch the heat pad on and off as necessary. All items for snake cage can be purchased at a good reptile pet shop.

Lighting
Corn snakes do not need a light in order to survive. In fact, they would probably prefer no light. But most reptile pet owners prefer to put some kind of light in the cage, to see the pet better. An ordinary 60 watt household bulb will be quite adequate. It is not too bright and creating too much heat. The light must be placed at the same end as the heat pad. A mesh guard should be fitted around the light bulb, otherwise the snakes will put their noses right up to the light bulb and burn themselves.

Water
A bowl of fresh water for drinking must be available to the snake at all times. If the snake defecated in it, the bowl must be cleaned immediately. The bowl should be placed at the cool end of the cage, away from the heat pad.

Substrate
A variety of materials can be used for substrate. Newspaper is the effective choice – it is very easy to clean up, but the look in the cage leaves a little to be desired. Indoor/outdoor carpeting and “Astroturf” (plastic lawn) can be used, and if you cut two pieces you can rotate them by swapping the clean one for the dirty one at cleaning time, and thoroughly washing and drying the soiled one. Pine bark chips are another good choice – the chips soiled with feces can simple be scooped out, and a thorough cleaning done as needed. Aspen shaving can be used in a similar manner, although it is probably a good idea to move the corn snake to a separate container for feeding so that the shavings are not inadvertently ingested.

Some snakes like their prey “jiggled” in front of them. To do this, pick the prey up by the tail with tongs (no sharp, pointy ends), and hold the prey in front of the snake for the snake to strike at.
Pet snakes that have refused to feed more than 2 times can be enticed into feeding by having the prey item slightly warmed, either by a heat lamp or soaked in warm water a few minutes before feeding. Don't put it in a microwave, as they can explode. Another trick to try is “braining”, where you pierce the head of the prey with a knife point and liquid from the head exposed with forceps or tweezers. The smell of the liquid will entice your exotic pet corn snake to feed




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